Believe the media and you’d be forgiven for thinking that Iran is the centre of all evil but look beyond the hype and you might be genuinely surprised. Whilst countries with an Islamic culture have a reputation for strict regimes, it does not follow that they are not open minded and Iranians in fact embrace foreign travellers with traditional warm hospitality. That is not to say that travellers should not be wary of current political hostility – some parts of Iran should only be ventured into by those on a death wish and up to date advice should always be taken from the foreign office, but as a general rule a ‘welcome’ mat awaits outside the doorstep of many a local. 

Exploring Iran is a bit like stepping into an Aladdin’s cave, alive with colour and unusual relics and artefacts, mixed in with a large measure of ancient history and some very fine looking carpets! Previously known as Persia, a name that conjures up opulence and mystery, Iran has stayed true to its roots, retaining a language, religion and cultural identity of its own.

Sip exotic teas, try out weird and wonderful dishes (sheep brain soup anyone?), discover Islamic ways of life in bejewelled mosques, marvel at ancient lost cities and join the locals in their ubiquitous evening strolls along the city ramparts and esplanades. 

Your first foot into Iran is likely to be its capital, Tehran. This is a bit unfortunate as you come face to face with the heavy smog that often hangs over the city like a veil. Not that Tehran has anything to hide – much like any capital city it is perfectly well formed – older areas fringed with modern influences. The result however is not as sophisticated as some of its glitzier rivals and the appeal of Tehran is more the character underneath than the superficial aesthetics. Over crowding is a problem in this bustling metropolis, but there are always places to escape to relative calm, with trendy eateries and museums taking the lead. You can even have a butchers at students learning the ancient art of carpet weaving, at the weaving school inside the Rassam Cultural and Art Foundation of Carpet.

What to do in Iran

The appeal of Iran to travellers is wide ranging, from princely mosques and palaces to thriving city bazaars to awesome rock climbing and supreme trekking territory. The fact that there is no well worn tourist trail is only a bonus, for rather than stepping into someone else’s experiences you are free to make your own.

Yazd

You might try the ochre coloured desert city of Yazd and succumb to the wind swept charms of its mysterious interior. Ancient heavy doors and gateways hide courtyards, gardens and old traditional teahouses. Tea is somewhat of a national past time in Iran. Those who like to partake in a stiff drink may be disappointed, but once you discover the teahouses, alcohol will soon seem unnecessary as the emphasis settles on taste rather than intoxication.

Jameh mosque is a must see in Yazd. Its towering minarets can be seen from almost anywhere in the city – a welcome sight in a city of narrow streets that can cause amnesia in navigating the way back to your city dwellings! 

Esfahan

Then there’s Esfahan, pleasing to the eye and with more exotic palaces and mosques than most. The way Esfahan is set out gives it an easy feel and the relaxed pace invites you to sit back in one of the magnificent public squares and people watch to your heart’s content. Surely this is the way to get a feel for Iranian life? The grand central square in Esfahan is a place to behold, a huge and significant part of the city that is over seven times larger Piazza San Marco. 

The bazaars are a hive of techni-coloured activity – the smell of perfumes and spices and broths bubbling over. Artisans display ancient craftwork in the form of supple soft shoes, heavy metalwork and jewellery and wondrously large carpets intricately woven. The Persians have long been recognised for their creativity and artistry, which extends to music and written works. Wandering the bazaars of Esfahan is like poetry in motion. The architecture too is spell binding – pillars and arches and dazzling blue tiles – Islamic patterned facades and shiny domed mosques throwing rays of sunlight across the squares and illuminating the faces of passers by. 

A favourite past time of locals in Esfahan is to stroll along by the Zavandeh River and hang out with friends underneath the arches of the various bridges that embrace the river. Young and old alike gather to chat and to listen to the recitals of poets or musicians that happen upon the passing crowds, offering a bohemian feel that might be more reminiscent of Paris in bygone days. 

Shiraz

Another attractive city is Shiraz, although not for its tipple! Mauseleums, bazaars, museums and mosques prevail as well as the inevitable tea houses.You may think this is more of the same but Shiraz has a certain sophistication about it that is lacking in some of the other Iranian towns. There is also greenery in the form of parks and pretty gardens, both of which serve as a fine backdrop for picnicking.

Also close to Shiraz is the awe inspiring ruins of Persepolis, a short drive away.

 

Mountains

If you want a break from the cities, take a trip out to the Alborz Mountains. The mountains are not too far outside of Tehran and yet they are a world away from the pollution and crowds of the capital. Breathe in some fresh mountain air and take a bracing trek through the picturesque scenery. The range includes Mount Damavand, the Middle East’s largest mountain.

The mountains are not Iran’s only natural beauties, the country is also home to some spectacular lakes and forests, as well as the desert. 

Getting there and around

Iran is serviced by a good network of flights from Europe, Asia and the Middle East. Most international flights come into Tehran, where your arrival will probably be met by a thick layer of smog, but don’t let that put you off! It is also possible to get flights into Shiraz, Esfahan and Mashhad.

It is also possible to enter Iran by ferry from the UAE, Sharjah and Dubai, as well as Bahrain, Kuwait and Qatar.

There are frequent trains across the border to and from Iran and Turkey.

Once in Iran, there is a fantastic bus network across the country and also relatively frequent trains so you will have no problem in travelling around with ease. However, if you have only been granted a short term visa you would be just as well to take advantage of some of the internal flight routes.

Shared taxis are also available but if you are an intrepid traveller you may want to risk hiring a self drive car, although road rules are practically non-existent as is road safety! 

Fast Facts

Full Name: Islamic Republic of Iran

Population: Approx 70,000,000

Currency: Iranian Rial

Official Languages spoken: Persian

Time zone: GMT + 3.5

Country dialling code: +98