Crammed into the back of a battered old Mercedes cab coated in a fine film of red dust, speeding through palm lined boulevards, the driver swinging from lane to lane, narrowly avoiding a moped carrying a man, his wife and 2 small children. Does anyone stop at intersections? And yet somehow there is a sense that this is organised chaos. Speed limits are for dodos, everyone knows it is in the hands of Allah to get you to your destination safely so why worry.... 

Then a glimpse of the Medina walls, fortified, proud and important, holding a mysterious and captivating city beyond. Like the veil covering a Muslim woman’s face, from which deep kohl lined eyes appear mesmerizingly, holding the key to the soul. The medina walls, interspersed by gates known as Babs, are likewise the key to the soul of the ancient city. 

This sight is familiar in all of the larger Moroccan cities – Marrakech, Fes, Rabat – and many of the smaller ones too, each with their own unique character waiting to be discovered. 

Bags dropped, late afternoon and the heat is still high, the souks beckon with promise of respite from the sun. Covered over intermittently with remnants of cloth that let in the last of the sun’s rays casting weird and wonderful patterns across people’s faces as they pass. Here’s a purveyor of fine perfumes set out alongside tiny delicate glass and silver bottles. Another selling an astonishing array of aromatic spices piled high in wonderful conical displays. A child is fixated by a wall of slippers, traditional Moroccan babouches made of the softest leather hand stitched and temptingly arranged in every colour imaginable. Oh and the smell! Sugary mint tea sipped by souk vendors as they idly chat eyeing passers-by for the prospect of a sale. Sweet smelling and enticing, the fresh mint adds a welcome layer of scent to mask the odour of a busy city in full swing. Cats and kittens everywhere, weaving in and out of your feet, there’s one curled asleep on the weighing scales, another playfully chasing the fringed tassels of the myriad kilim rugs hanging decoratively off the side of a wall. All the while vendors play their theatrical acts with great expression and good spirit – “Today half price, but only today” “You are first customer, so I give for you good price as bring me luck, first sale of the day always bring luck” “You buy slippers, you give 20 families enough to eat today”. And so the fun begins!

So what is the essence of Morocco? The people perhaps, their sun wizened faces and earthiness lending a humility and ancient wisdom, a welcoming embrace to those who scratch the surface. The maze of narrow alleyways haphazardly crossing cities that have stood still with time. The meticulously timed, beautifully haunting prayer calls ululating on the breeze, conveying the importance of the faith that underlies Morocco’s rhythm of life. 

It may be a cliché but Morocco IS one of those rare places that touches the soul and stirs the senses. Just as it has done throughout its colourful history, just as it will continue to do so for years to come. And what’s more, in this current political climate, it’s one of the safest Arabian countries in which to travel. 

What to do in Morocco

Cities, beaches, mountains, desert – visitors are spoilt for choice. The following is just a tiny introduction to a country with so much on offer.

Marrakech

The heart of Morocco and it is sure to win your heart too. The contrast between the ‘Ville Nouvelle’ and the old city is a gentle transformation, Marrakech is what Morocco is all about. Vivid colour, smells, noise and street scenes that could have been lifted from the pages of a glossy coffee table book play on before your very eyes. Men and women in traditional long hooded robes called Djellabahs pass through narrow streets, jostling their way alongside heavy laden mules carefully picking a path through the crowds. Huge wooden doors brightly painted in jewelled hues, adorned with elaborate locks and bolts and embellished with silver door knockers in the shape of the hand of Fatima.
 
Rugs and cushions and Moroccan pouffes and also sorts of interior goodies line the souk shops, tempting casual passers-by who only meant to browse but couldn’t resist. 

The sweetest pastries on offer, tiny, delicate, gone in a mouthful until you reach for another and another. 

All roads eventually lead to a square, the hub of activity. The piece de resistance is Place Djemaa el Fna – the main square of Marrakech, alive at any hour of day but awakened to its full potential after dusk. This square has to be seen to be believed. At first the noise is deafening, the crowds overbearing and yet there is something so appealing and you will be drawn like a magnet night after night. Rows of food stalls offering tagines and sheesh kebabs sizzling hot on the grill as you wait, their cumulative smoke spirals rising high in the air and lingering over the crowds. The place is magical, a story tale or fantasy that stimulates the senses into overdrive. Look on as crowds gather around a flute player enticing a cobra from its sleep. Music fills the air, drums beating methodically ever louder as dancers spin like whirling dervishes faster and faster in a trance. Acrobats do somersaults and balancing acts, whilst dark eyed beauties ply their trade as henna artists creating an intricate work of art on a hand here, a shoulder there. When it all gets too much head towards the tall tower of the mosque where you will see lined up a row of horses and carriages, the perfect way to end the evening and travel in style back to your night’s sojourn.

Marrakech has mosques and palaces and exquisite gardens. History is celebrated around every corner. By all means plan an itinerary to fit it all in, or best of all just wander and explore what you find by accident.

Fes

Morocco’s fourth largest city previously capital, Fes has all the attractions of Marrakech and yet each has their own unique style. 

One of the main draw cards for visitors to Fes is its leather tanneries. There is no sign post directing the way, no need, for your nose will lead the way. The best vantage point is from one of the many leather shops that surround the tanneries – oh yes, the Moroccans are astute and know a commercial opportunity when they see one. They will give you a fascinating spiel about the history of the tanneries, look on as you release your inner David Bailey and capture the expressions of the tannery workers going about their task in the ceaseless heat and then, just as you turn to go, you will be led on an impromptu tour of the leather shop and it’s factory workshop in the basement. Before you know it you are leaving with arms full of bags and belts and slippers and even a hand stitched camel for the neighbour’s kids back home. You’ve got to give it to them for ingenuity! 

An amazing day trip from Fes is to visit the wonderful Roman ruins of Volubilis, an important Roman town with some of the best preserved ruins in Northern Africa. Travel by road or take a train to Meknes (1 hour) and a grand taxi up to the ruins. You can wander freely about the ruins. If you go at the right time of year, you will often see storks nesting on top of the huge ancient pillars. 

Combine with a trip to the nearby Moulay Idriss, a little whitewashed town containing the tomb of the much revered Moulay Idris I, founder of Fes and a descendant of Muhammed. 

Essaouira

Tap into your creative soul with a trip to this artistic coastal haven, much frequented by Moroccans themselves for their summer holidays. Essaouira is both a hip and hippy hangout, it has long been a well trodden path for those who enjoy freedom of expression and easy living. Jimi Hendrix did a stint here as did Cat Stevens and many other famous musicians and artists and film makers . There is even an ‘Orson Welles’ Square after Mr Welles filmed Othello in this little port city. 

This is a place to stroll along the promenade, to spend inordinate numbers of hours in cafes sipping mint tea and people watching. Fresh fish is in abundance, the daily catch hauled onto the port side by the bucketful early morning. By mid-morning a large proportion of the fish finds its way onto a sizzling grill by the fish stalls, a stone’s throw from the port. If there’s one thing you absolutely MUST do in Essaouira it’s this, pick your fish from the many different varieties, agree a price and take a seat at the rustic wooden tables and benches and watch with delight as your fish is freshly grilled before your very eyes and served up with simple salads and breads. Heaven! You won’t find mouth-wateringly fresher fish anywhere. 

Essaouira is a hive of activity, particularly along the long stretch of beach where you can organise camel rides, horse riding and quad biking among the dunes. It is also a wind surfing mecca due to the persistent driving winds. Watch children and adults alike flying kites of all shapes and sizes on the beach, or join in one of the many communal beach football games where anyone is a welcome addition to the team. 

The first thing that strikes you about Essaouira is the lack of hassle. If you’ve travelled here from one of the larger cities, you will be pleasantly surprised by the gentle pace and the genuine attempts by locals to strike up a conversation without an ulterior motive. Even the beggars ask for 1 dirham instead of 20! The streets are laid out in a logical grid system which can catch you off guard when you’ve been used to labyrinthine alleyways of the likes of Marrakech!
Many bars, restaurants and riads have open air terraces from which to enjoy far reaching and spectacular views. The best are those overlooking the crashing waves beneath the ramparts of the medina. 

Atlas Mountains

The Atlas Mountains are more accessible than many mountain ranges, with hikes suitable to all ranges of fitness. If you’re doing anything more than a day trek you will need a guide. Fear not, as there are a large number of official guides available for hire who will not only ensure that you don’t lose your way but they will often secure you somewhere to bed down for the night with a local Berber family, an experience not to be missed.

Sleeping

Over the last decade Morocco has entered the conscience of the hip and stylish ‘luxury’ traveller as well as remaining a backpacker fave. Fortunately there is accommodation to suit all and then some. Traditional riads (houses built around courtyards) have come into their own, being bought up in hordes by both locals and foreigners alike (in particular the French as French is spoken widely throughout Morocco) and painstakingly restored to their former glory. Many of these riads are so indulgent they appear to be straight off the cover of an upmarket interiors magazine, with sumptuous furnishings fit for royalty. Ok, some have a price tag to match too, but there are many in the mid range that are easy on the pocket and just as easy on the eye, filling that all too difficult gap between backpacker and A-lister. 

Getting there and around

Only 3 hours flight from Europe and yet a world away in terms of experience and culture. Flying to Morocco is relatively simple with a choice of several international airports. Another popular way to enter this Northern tip of Africa is by ferry from Southern Spain, either as a foot passenger or by private vehicle, as the paperwork is not too daunting. 

In fact bringing your own vehicle is an excellent way to travel around the country. Rental cars are available but can be quite pricy. If you’re cash rich and time poor then one or two internal flights will help you make the most of your trip. Alternatively, there is a very good bus and train network. 

If you need to get from A to B locally, the petit taxis are excellent value and run on meters so you don’t have to spend time haggling. These types of taxis are only permitted to run within city boundaries however, so if you need a taxi to take you further afield you will have to negotiate a fixed price for one of the grand taxis (these are normally priced per seat and can be shared with other travellers if you can find anyone going your way). 

Fast Facts

Country Full Name: Kingdom of Morocco
 
Currency: Moroccan Dirham 

Population: Approx 35,000,000 

Country Dialling code: +212 

Time Zone: GMT +0